Pain in Paradise

Although I live in a central part of the city here in Rome, my apartment is in a quiet neighbourhood with lots of trees. It is on top of a small hill and I always felt like I was in a little village. Today my haven has suffered a terrible blow.

I usually wake up in the morning to the sound of birds twittering or in warmer months, to parrots squawking. This morning I was awakened by the sound of chain saws. The house next door to me which was almost invisible behind a screen of trees was suddenly brutally visible. Completely gone are a large lemon tree, a pomegranate tree, a large Nespole tree, several evergreens and a slew of shrubs. The house has been largely uninhabited since I came here and I guess it must have been finally sold. I’m afraid that they’re going to convert the garden into a parking area. I can’t stop humming the line from Joni Mitchell’s song ‘they paved paradise and put up a parking lot’.

Image Origin: Getty Images

It feels like every week, there is something new to be aghast about. I was in Goa when the news of the Paradise papers emerged. The extent of the money hidden by the wealthy behind various offshore tax avoidance schemes is truly horrifying. I expected that there would be an uproar about it but not much of a peep in any country as I guess it’s all legal so little can be done. Meanwhile, the EU is on the edge of a turmoil. Nobody knows what’s going to happen now that Angela Merkel is unable to form a majority coalition. Here in Italy, Silvio Berlusconi forged a winning coalition of his centre right and two far right parties in regional elections in Sicily. The 81-year old who is so ‘remade’ that he looks half that age has made a come back despite recent cardiac surgery, tax fraud and sex scandals. He is banned from running for office but has appealed to the European court of human rights and being a billionaire has been able to hire top lawyers. If this happens, there is a chance that he could lead the country again in the next election which is hard to even imagine.

Gian Lorenzo Bernini: Detail from ‘The Abduction of Proserpina’

Anyhow, one has to find beautiful things to cheer one up and there is no shortage of beauty in Rome. There are a number of exhibitions and I went to one of the work of Bernini at the Villa Borghese last week. He truly was an incredible sculptor and his figures look like they’re carved out of some soft material rather than marble. Tomorrow, I’m going to an exhibition of Monet’s work on a guided tour in Italian. I don’t care for guided tours of paintings but a friend has persuaded me to join her and it will be good for my Italian. Thank goodness at least works of art have not been totally destroyed. I wish it was the same for our environment.

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News From Goa

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Cemetery, St Anne’s Church, Parra

It is very hot and humid in Goa right now but there are lots of tourists here nevertheless.

Candolim Beach

The majority are domestic tourists from other parts of India celebrating Diwali holidays when the schools are closed. Lots of Russians too and apparently there’s a Russian Mafia here involved with the drug trade. Next week onwards, until towards the end of March marks the peak tourist season when the weather is cooler. Domestic tourists tend not to visit during this period as prices go up while European tourists abound on account of the more pleasant weather. One nice thing at this time of year is that everything is still green and lush after the monsoon rains. The beach close to where I’m staying is beautiful and though its too hot for me during the day, I’ve been enjoying walks around sunset.


My reason for coming to Goa was to sort out some banking issues. Since my mother passed away and we dealt with her estate about 4 years ago, our accounts have lain dormant and the bank froze them due to lack of activity. The only way I could get them reactivated was to present myself to the bank in person. I found out when I got here that everything is secured by SMS and text messaging so I couldn’t activate my cash card until I got myself a mobile number. This was not as easy as it sounds. To safeguard against terrorism (I think) one has to fill out forms, and submit a photograph as well as one’s passport to get a SIM card. As it turned out, I was glad I had gotten myself a mobile number and data on my phone as it seems that most people here communicate by WhatsApp or SMS anyway. Needless to say there was a good deal of tooing and froing and trips to the nearest big town, Mapusa. The overnight receptionist at the hotel, who I’ve known for a long time, would give me a ride to Mapusa on his motorbike first thing in the morning as it is on his way home so at least my days started out pleasantly. I’m glad to say that I got everything resolved so I’m pleased about that.
On November 2nd, the Feast of All Souls, I randomly went by a cemetery and was amazed to see the graves all covered with flowers. I didn’t know that this way of honouring the dead was practised in Goa as this custom does not seem to have been carried on by emigrants to other countries like my parents. Anyhow, it was a colourful and moving sight as relatives were also there lighting candles. The picture above shows the entrance to the cemetery at St. Anne’s church in Parra bult in 1649. The caption says ‘Aiz Mhaka Faleam Tuka’ which translates to ‘Today Me, Tomorrow You’. A chilling thought but one we shouldn’t forget.

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On The Move

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These are the feet of a presumed royal Egyptian figure dating from the 3rd century BC. It is all that remains of the colossal figure together with the base which contains a hieroglyphic script and which is to be seen in the Altemps Museum in Rome. They were found in what was once a Temple to the Egyptian god Iside in the area of Rome called Campo Marzo close to the Pantheon. There was a fashion for things Egyptian during the time of Anthony and Cleoptra and many artefacts were brought to Rome during this time. You may be wondering what this has got to to with anything. Well, the truth of the matter is that they are symbolic of the fact that I’m on the move again.
I’ve been back in Rome for about a week now. Glorious weather here, in the mid-20s during the day though cooler at night and in the early mornings. Perfect for walking and the city isn’t jammed with tourists so its a lovely time to wander around. All the activities that I’m part of, like my choir and bookclub are back in action again so it was a fun and busy week as soon as I arrived catching up with friends and getting back into to the swing of things.
Not for long though as I’m off to Goa. More of an obligation rather than a vacation but I’m sure I will find time for a few walks on the beach as well not to mention a beer or two. I’ll keep you posted!

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Birthday Adventure

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My sister gave me an exciting present for my birthday, a ziplining ecotour with Long Point Adventure Tours in southwest Ontario. To keep me company, she included her two children and son-in-law, and took on the task of babysitting the grandchildren. Many thanks are due…….

There were seven of us in our group with two guides. After being fitted out with helmets, safety gloves, harnesses and given a lesson on how to slow down and stop, we zoomed off through the tops of the trees.

The way it worked was that one guide went first while the second secured our harnesses to the rope and launched each of us off one by one.  Only one person at a time on the line which was a steel rope, and of course the first guide was already on  the arrival platform to make sure one landed safely. It was a most exhilarating feeling, flying through the air but not much time to admire the views except when you were standing on the platform waiting for everyone to arrive. The longest line was about 400 meters which doesn’t take long when you’re whizzing along. While waiting on one of the platforms, we tried edge walking which was exciting if a little scary.

There were about 14 lines and 8 platforms as well as a suspension bridge and a 40 foot rappel. Definitely not for people who are afraid of heights. The suspension bridge was fun and since we were secured to a rope we were able to hang over the side and get a good look both below us and at the tree canopy above.

I was not looking forward to the rappeling as I had no idea what it was but knew that it involved either climbing or down a rope. In fact it turned out to be easier than I imagined as it is simply being let down a rope and the speed can be controlled. I wished I could have done it again and gone a little faster!

We all enjoyed the morning. When we got back, my niece was relieved to find that her 4 month old baby, had slept in her stroller in the garden for most of the morning. My sister was relieved too! We ended the day with a fine Thanksgiving dinner replete with a bountiful harvest from the garden. A much appreciated ‘feel young’ birthday present.

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Talk About Trees

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Cathedral Grove, Vancouver Island, BC

On a recent visit to Vancouver, I came across a totem pole in the Van Dusen Gardens. Totem poles can serve as monuments, memorials or sign posts and often have stories carved onto them.

Al of the Gispudwada. Carver Arthur Sterritt

This one was commissioned by the Botanical Garden Association in 1976 and describes the origin of the Black Bear crest of the Orca clan of indigenous people. The story is that a long time ago, a man was transformed into a black bear and lived among them (bottom showing bear carrying a human face). After some time, he returned to his people and a healer helped him become human again (top showing man holding the healer). The bears continued to help him and his people so they took the bear as their crest. The carving is beautiful, as you can see, and is done out of a single massive trunk, traditionally red cedar.

Old Red Cedar, Cathedral Grove

A few days later, we visited Cathedral Grove on Vancouver Island where some of the red cedars and Douglas firs are over 200 feet high and some are 800 years old. Tall and majestic with enormous trunks, it does feel like a cathedral. It was awesome and we noticed that people spoke in low voices as if they all felt that they were in a place of worship. It is sad to think of us humans decimating forests like this to make a profit from the wood. Thankfully, pressure to protect the environment has slowed this down on the island.

Back in Ontario, I was in Norfolk county which also has beautiful Carolinian forests consisting of Tulip trees, Eastern Flowering Dogwood, Sassafras and Chestnut, amongst others. Not as majestic as Cathedral Grove but impressive all the same and beautiful to walk in. The more you look the more you see, birds, butterflies, frogs and wild flowers.

Coral Mushroom

Trees that have fallen over provide a home for insects, moss and mushrooms in season. This beautiful coral mushroom was growing on a dead tree stump and is edible.

Forests and trees have been a source of artistic inspiration for many from paintings, the carving of totem poles to wood carvings of various sorts.  I saw a contemporary art sculpture of a tree trunk done by Marguerite Larmand of Six Directions Studio in Norfolk county. She used the natural form of the tree to illustrate that male and female aspects exist in a single being.

Tree Sculpture by Marguerite Larmand

The piece represented a tree trunk cut in two halves and she spoke of actually portraying her own duality. Hence the female half is strong while the male half is less so. Unfortunately, the male half was destroyed while the sculpture was being moved and she now only has the female half. It sits in the hallway of her house and is very striking. You’re probably wondering (as I was!) what the weak male half looked like. Luckily, there was a photo of the piece when it was displayed in a gallery so I took a photograph to show you. An impressive piece of work. Enjoy!


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Toronto Tidbits

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Toronto Skyline from Leslie Street Spit

Apologies to my readers yet again for my long silence. I returned to Toronto about a month ago and have just been lazy about writing. It was a real pleasure to leave Rome as it was 40C when I left and getting hotter. By comparison, Toronto is very pleasant around the mid 20s.

One of the things I like about being in Toronto is being able to travel around on my bike, my preferred mode of travel. The city is bike-friendly and there are designated bike lanes on many major streets which makes it easy to bike in the city. The waterfront stretches for miles and there are areas along it only open to walkers and cyclists. Some weeks ago, I was on one of these, a long man-made narrow peninsula, largely formed by landfill, called the Leslie Street Spit. It extends 5km into Lake Ontario and has been left in its natural habitat which has attracted many species of birds.  In one spot, people have arranged little piles of stones similar to what the indigenous people in the Artic would have made on a larger scale called inukshuks which they used as reference points for navigation. No navigation is necessary on Leslie Spit but they look pretty framing the Toronto skyline and people must enjoy balancing stones.

A few days later, I was walking along a path close to the University of Toronto campus and an artist was doing the same balancing of stones in a dry river bed filled with stones.  He apparently does this almost every day starting afresh each morning as a form of performance art.

Many people like myself stop to take photos after asking his permission at which point he asks for a donation. I can’t imagine that he makes a living out of this but it’s an interesting way to earn money and his skill at balancing stones is admirable.

Yesterday was the solar eclipse which we able to see partially from here.  Many people, armed with protective glasses, were looking up at the sky during the eclipse.  Down on the ground though was a strange sight. I saw this group of birds, mostly pigeons but also other species, as still as the balancing stones.  It was an extraordinary and disconcerting phenomenon. The light had changed but it wasn’t at all dark, and the temperature had fallen slightly, really not enough of a change to warrant a change in behaviour. In retrospect, I wish I had waited until the eclipse had ended to see what the birds would do. I found out afterwards that an ecologist Rebecca Johnson at the California Academy of Sciences is leading a project called Life Responds for which an App called iNaturalist was created  in order that her team of biologists and astronomers can analyse data recorded by the public on animal behaviour during the eclipse. Evidently, animals behave in strange ways during an eclipse. Too bad I didn’t know beforehand as I would have enjoyed recording my observations in a structured way. Once a scientist, always a scientist!

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The Feast of Saints Peter and Paul

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Last week, while Canadians were celebrating Canada Day weekend, the Romans were celebrating the feast of Saints Peter and Paul which is on June 29th.

St Peter and St. Paul

The feast is of ancient origin and there are accounts dating back to AD 258 of the feasts of Peter and Paul being celebrated on the same day. Both were martyred during the time of the emperor Nero. St Peter was crucified in AD 64, upside down according to his wishes as he didn’t feel worthy to be crucified in the same way as Christ. St. Peter’s Basilica, was built over his burial ground. St. Paul had his head cut off by a sword in AD 67 and his remains are in the Basilica of St. Paul outside the walls. Burials within the walls were not allowed in those days.

The feast day is a public holiday and when it falls on a Thursday, as it did this year, those who can, make a ‘ponte’ (bridge) which is to say that they take Friday off as well to give a long weekend. Traditionally, flower ‘pictures’ are arranged in the Piazza just in front of St. Peter’s Square. Made out of flower petals and natural materials including rice, lentils and wood shavings, people work late into the previous night to have the pictures ready for the feast and yet not dried out by the sun. I got there before noon so probably saw them at their best as the sun is pretty fierce now during the day.

Though I live close to St. Peter’s and cross the square frequently, I rarely brave the crowds to get into the Basilica. However, on Sunday I went to Mass there to listen to the Corpus Christi Choir from Oxford. Eric, the assistant leader of the choir that I sing with here, is an English organ scholar and he was singing with them. Visitors cannot access the altar area of the Basilica unless attending a service which is a good thing as the Basilica has become more of a museum than a place of worship. I had my pick of seats when I got past the barrier and plenty of time to admire the altar at close quarters. The singing was, dare I say, heavenly and staring at the glorious altar made me feel in another world. Bernini incorporated what is reputed to be the chair St. Peter sat on while giving his teachings, into a gilded bronze throne on the altar. It is rather grand but I couldn’t quite figure out what might have been the original chair as I’m sure St. Peter wasn’t sitting on anything like what you see in the picture. There is supposedly a skeleton of acacia wood buried in there somewhere which is apparently the oldest piece.

Since I’m on the subject of St. Peter, there is a beautiful statue of him on the right hand side just before you come to the Baldachino and main altar. To me, it is one of the few statues in the Basilica that has a human scale (the other is Michaelangelo’s Pieta). Sculpted in bronze by Arnolfo di Cambio in the 13th cent. he is seated on an ivory throne. Behind it, is what appears to be a brocade screen but is actually mosaic. Greatly venerated, the right foot has been worn smooth by pilgrims touching or kissing it.  On June 29th, it is dressed with a red and gold Papal cape and a gold Papal hat but these had been removed by the time I got there on Sunday. As always when I visit St. Peter’s, I feel that  I should go more often as it is so vast and overwhelming that one would need binoculars and several visits to take in the details.



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Summer Solstice at the Pantheon

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Pantheon, Summer Solstice 2017

Last week on the day of the summer solstice, June 21st, I decided to go to the Pantheon. The Pantheon is one of the most amazing buildings of all time. Built by the Emperor Hadrian around AD 125, it consists of a cylinder topped by a dome. The diameter is exactly the same as its height (43 metres) and could enclose a sphere. What’s amazing about it is that the domed part does not have any steel bars or screws which had not been invented at that time. Instead, it is made up of different types of aggregate. The widest part of travertine  the middle with more terracotta and the top with a lighter  tufa and pumice so that the dome supports its own weight.  It is still the largest dome in the world made of non-reinforced concrete. At the very top is an oculus or opening, about 9 metres in diameter which is the sole source of light apart from the entrance.

So now you can guess why I wanted to go to the Pantheon on June 21st. On this date, the sun is directly over the Tropic of Cancer so it is the one day of the year when the sun shines down through the oculus and hits the floor not exactly directly down onto the centre but in front of the entrance. This astrological event coincided with a time of day of 1 pm in Rome. I got there at about 12.30 and it was already amazing to see a circle of light on the floor. As you can imagine, people had been pouring in and out constantly as the Pantheon is one of the most visited sights in Rome and this is the peak of the tourist season. At 1 pm, the circle of light had moved directly in front of the door and all the lights were switched off. It seemed that automatically, people formed a ring around this 9 metre circle of light and actually stood silent for about a minute. We were all awestruck by the Pantheon in darkness except for the rays of the sun shining down through the oculus forming this circle of bright light on the floor. It was one of the most mystical sights I’ve seen outside of being in a natural landscape.

As its name indicates, Hadrian wanted the Pantheon to encompass the worship of all Gods although this was not usual in his time with temples almost always dedicated to a specific god. Today, it is the catholic church of Santa Maria and the Martyrs but on days like the summer solstice, it still maintains its character of being a universal place of wonder and worship.

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Old and New Sights in Paris

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I know Paris fairly well having lived there for six months many years ago. However, I hadn’t been there for years so when two good friends who live there both persuaded me to visit, I decided that I should go.

My first evening was spent celebrating my friend Jill’s birthday at a restaurant on the Quay Montebello just across from Notre Dame cathedral, a delightful way to start my trip. What struck me apart from the restaurant’s good food was the absence of tourists in the area. I put this down to the fact that there had been an attack on a policeman in Notre Dame the day before but my impression was fortified over the week as, compared with Rome, there were much fewer tourists and no line-ups to get into the Louvre or other museums.Very pleasant for me but sad that that tourism has declined in France likely due to the fear of terrorism. I have always liked I.M. Pei’s glass pyramid at the entrance and this time, I was able to get an unobstructed view both from above and below. Usually, ‘below’ is always full of people.

La Grande Halle de La Vilette (The Great Hall of Cattle)

Jill lives near the canal St. Martin and one morning I walked it’s entire (visible) length all the way to Park La Villette a huge space which was once home to abbatoirs and a national wholesale meat market. In 1974, the meat market was relocated and in 1984 Bernard Tschumi, in an urban re-development project, redesigned it as a park and a space for cultural enjoyment.

La Philarmonie

A science museum has been there for years and now a various exhibition and performance spaces have been added. The latest addition is the Philarmonie, a very grand and modern concert hall designed by Jean Nouvel. Again there was hardly anyone around and I had the place to myself which was a bit disconcerting as I imagine the park was designed with the concept of people milling around which I’m sure is the case at weekends.

Fondation Louis Vuitton

My friend Nuala lives on the opposite side of the city and here in the Bois de Bologne is another new architectural masterpiece, the Fondation Louis Vuitton designed by Frank Geary. In true Geary style, it is a feat of engineering and serves as an exhibition space and auditorium. It must be amazing to attend a performance in the auditorium as it seems as if it is suspended over water.

The day we went, there was an exhibition of works by contemporary African artists. I was thrilled to see the stencils that William Kentridge had used for his grand project ‘Triumphs and Lamentations’ on the Tiber which I saw a few weeks while walking along the river here in Rome.

Stencil for William Kentridge’s Triumphs and Laments

There were numerous exhibitions showing in Paris but one of the ones which particularly attracted me was called Picasso Primitif and featured the influence of African masks and sculptures on his art. A strong influence on much of his work when you see his paintings and sculptures side by side with the African ones. There were photographs showing his many studios over his lifetime all with various African masks and sculptures.

Musei di Quay Branly – Jacques Chirac

Also interesting for me was the museum in which the exhibition was held, the Musee du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac. Appaently, Jacques Chirac had a strong interest in non-European art and artefacts and his memorial to the city of Paris, if you could call it that, was this museum. Built by Jean Nouvel in a very different style from the Philarmonie, it was built as a collaborative project with the landscape architct Gilles Clement. Greenery, including a lot of non-native plants, surrounds the building with a wall of plants on the side facing the Quay and gives a sense of being in an exotic wild location. When you’re in the garden, it’s hard to imagine that just over the wall is the city of Paris.

Picasso and Ernest Anscher




Back to Picasso, I must say he must have had a good sense of humour. I was amused by this photo of him and his friend Ernest Ascher on vacation in the south of France. Needless to say, we know who must have done the body painting. After all the wine and delicious meals I had in Paris, my stomach is in danger of reaching similar proportions. In case you’re wondering, I will not be regaling you with a body painting of it in a future post……….

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Amalfi Coast Adventure

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Amalfi Town

When my friends Wayne and Peter from Toronto came to visit and proposed that I join them on a trip to the Amalfi Coast, I was delighted to do so as I had not seen much of that part of the coast. The Amalfi coast is part of the Sorrentine peninsula, that little finger of land that juts out into the Mediterranean sea below Naples.

We took the train from Rome to Naples and spent two days in this chaotic, crumbling but still beautiful city. We stayed in an apartment in Spaccanapoli, right in the middle of the historic centre and within walking distance of the major sights. An interesting area in which to wander about with its narrow streets, washing hanging from the windows and glimpses into peoples living spaces. I had been to Naples before and enjoyed re-visiting the main sights but this time, I discovered that there is a vast underground world of caverns, catacombs and aqueducts. The rock under Naples is not really rock but a softer volcanic material called tufo. Earthquakes created large fissures allowing water in and thus creating underground streams which once supplied Naples with its water supply. I took an underground tour lasting an hour and a half and only saw a tiny fraction of the ancient water system. Currently, there are moves to use the space for plant cultivation using artificial lighting and I saw basil being grown for use in some of the restaurants above.

Toledo Subway Station

Despite the fact that we could walk everywhere, we took the Metro especially to see the Toledo subway station. Reputed to be the most beautiful subway station in Europe, I wanted to check it out and I was not disappointed. The walls alongside the escalators going up to ground level are lined with deep blue glass mosaic giving the impression of being underwater. As the escalator reaches the middle, a sort of narrow ‘tower’ lit in blue opens up above with daylight coming in through a small opening at the top giving the effect of suddenly seeing the sun or moon. Hard to describe the effect but it was so amazing and beautiful that we spent a lot of time just going up and down the escalator looking up into this space. Strange to be writing about a subway station when we saw magnificent works of art including exquisite mosaics and frescoes from Pompeii which are now in the Archaelogical Museum of Naples but this could be classified as a modern work of art.

Amalfi’s Duomo

From Naples, we took the train to Salerno and then a ferry to Amalfi. A beautiful stretch of coast with towering cliffs, villages clinging to the  hillsides, lemon groves tucked into little fissures in the mountains and churches perched on top of sheer rock. We landed in Amalfi, which is quaint but busy and  full of tourists, many of them daytrippers.

We were lucky in that we had rented an apartment in Atrani, a small peaceful village about 15 minutes walk from Amalfi. We lucked out with this as the apartment had a huge terrace filled with plants including masses of jasmine in flower and a spectacular view. Wayne works for a publishing company and had an array of guidebooks. Imagine our delight when we realized that the view from our terrace was almost exactly the same as that featured on the cover of the National Geographic guide book on the Amalfi Coast.

Villa Rufolo, Ravello

We did a lot of walking up and down the hills since there is hardly any flat ground. Wayne and Peter, armed with their Fit Bits, gave me a running commentary about how many steps we were doing and every day, the number exceeded 20,000. A good thing as we dined very well on delicious seafood dishes every including eating at a Michelin starred restaurant at the Palazzo Arvino  in chic Ravello up in the mountains above Amalfi. Famous for its gardens, Ravello is charming with stunning views of the landscape down to the sea. The road up to it, in fact all the roads,  are very narrow and full of hairpin bends. There is a whole system of horn blasts from bus drivers to warn motorists coming in the opposite direction and there were times when we were just inches away from vehicles on the opposite side as there is no room to pull over and  reversing is not an option.


I was very glad that we hadn’t rented a car but instead took boats and buses to neighbouring towns like Positano. A much more relaxed way to travel and coming into the towns by boat is guaranteed to be a picture-perfect sight. There are several long walking trails along the cliffs which we did not have time to do but I’m saving that for my next visit.

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